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> Gas tank rust removal with Evapo Rust
iruneverytime
post Feb 10 2012, 06:42 PM
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So i let my 600 sit for a few months then tried to start and ride it. it idles fine, but starts to choke out at 7k and wont go any higher. I am currently treating with evapo rust, as i found rust in the tank.

my question is this. how important is it to use a tank coating product after the rust has been removed? Also, evapo rust claims to leave a protectant on the metal that protects from further rust for up to two weeks. Im wondering if this would be harmful to leave on there, as it may find its way through the fuel lines and into the carbs. any help/experienced opinions would be appreciated, thanks

Dick
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thatkid
post Feb 10 2012, 06:57 PM
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QUOTE (iruneverytime @ Feb 10 2012, 06:42 PM) *
So i let my 600 sit for a few months then tried to start and ride it. it idles fine, but starts to choke out at 7k and wont go any higher. I am currently treating with evapo rust, as i found rust in the tank.

my question is this. how important is it to use a tank coating product after the rust has been removed? Also, evapo rust claims to leave a protectant on the metal that protects from further rust for up to two weeks. Im wondering if this would be harmful to leave on there, as it may find its way through the fuel lines and into the carbs. any help/experienced opinions would be appreciated, thanks

Dick



I've personally never found evaporust to be any good. Some phosphate etch and about 20 min depending on the severity of the rust and it'll be clean. So long as you keep gas in the tank after that, you shouldn't have too many problems with rust.


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FZRPaul
post Feb 10 2012, 07:48 PM
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QUOTE (iruneverytime @ Feb 10 2012, 07:42 PM) *
So i let my 600 sit for a few months then tried to start and ride it. it idles fine, but starts to choke out at 7k and wont go any higher. I am currently treating with evapo rust, as i found rust in the tank.

my question is this. how important is it to use a tank coating product after the rust has been removed? Also, evapo rust claims to leave a protectant on the metal that protects from further rust for up to two weeks. Im wondering if this would be harmful to leave on there, as it may find its way through the fuel lines and into the carbs. any help/experienced opinions would be appreciated, thanks

Dick


Dick - I've used EVAPO-RUST several times and it works GREAT! Plus, it's eco-friendly (a Green product) you can dump it out anywhere, even on the grass. The trick with using it in a tank will be obviously to seal all holes so it doesnt leak out, then leave the tank sit so the liquid covers each inner side, top, bottom, etc. so it will take a couple days if you can't attend to it every few hours (ie you can let it sit, go to work, switch to a new side at lunch, switch when you come home, etc. - let the solvent do all the work) or just let it sit over night on each side if your not in a big hurry.

I poured some in a small plastic container, let some NASTY RUSTED FZR bolts sit in it for a few hours, sloshed it around a bit, let it sit overnight, and the bolts were like new when I dumped them out the next day...then on top of that I poored the USED Rusty EVAPO-RUST into a gas tank, and let it clean the tank out over a coule days. The more saturated the EVAPO-Rust gets with the rust it removes, the less effective it is, but if your using unused stuff right out of the bottle, it should do a GREAT job on your tank.

After you clean your tank, run a tank full of gas through the bike, pull and replace the gas filter that's inline with your fuel pump just incase any residual tiny rust is left, and you should be good to go for years to come. Also, remember when you store your bike to put some seafoam in the gas and fill the tank to the top so you don't have any chance of condensation build up and she'll start up nice months later when you go to ride again in spring.

Tank coating products generally suck-ass, esp. products like "Kream"; they are just a huge friggin' mess.
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rotortech
post Feb 10 2012, 09:01 PM
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+1 to Evap-O-Rust. I know a lot of guys who use it on older bikes that FZRs and have good results. I have read that it leaves a protective coating on the surface of the tank. I plan to give it a try next time.

To Thatkid's credit, I have also used Phosphate etch and gotten really bad tanks perfectly clean. The metal afterwards is bare and very subject to corrosion.


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iruneverytime
post Feb 11 2012, 10:27 AM
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Sweet thanks for the advice. ill post later how it all goes, iv e got her soaking as we speak. I had initially bought a "kream" competitor for about 25 bucks but i think im just going to return it and take my chances.

I have also read about the protective coating evapo leaves behind, which i hope will help prevent "flash rusting" and all that business.

Yeah i wish i had done some proper maintenance for storage. Definitely will next time.
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iruneverytime
post Feb 23 2012, 12:46 PM
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the shit works. slowly. it took about 30 dollars worth of the business and about a week to finally get the rust out. I had it all back together and put some gas in it. At this point, it started to leak from the reserve switch. it didn't leak put together off the bike, but it did as soon as i put it on the bike. Im tired of dealing with it though so im getting the carbs cleaned and fuel system put together for 150 bucks.
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FZRPaul
post Feb 23 2012, 05:55 PM
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QUOTE (iruneverytime @ Feb 23 2012, 01:46 PM) *
the shit works. slowly. it took about 30 dollars worth of the business and about a week to finally get the rust out. I had it all back together and put some gas in it. At this point, it started to leak from the reserve switch. it didn't leak put together off the bike, but it did as soon as i put it on the bike. Im tired of dealing with it though so im getting the carbs cleaned and fuel system put together for 150 bucks.


Shit man... I could sell you a pretty rust free tank that you could throw on and go for $30 plus shipping and if you run a can of seafoam through your tank of gas, you're carbs will probably clear up perfectly ($8 can) - that's a heck of a lot cheaper than $150!
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snboarder113
post Feb 24 2012, 08:15 PM
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You didnt use any abrasive cleaner on the pet cock gasket did you? It might have eaten the gasket, also it "plumps" with contact of gas and seals better, so if it was dry it might just take a bit to get it back to normal.


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iruneverytime
post Feb 28 2012, 12:22 PM
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okay so im not actually giving up yet. Its not the tank thats the problem. nor is it where the petcock meets the tank. It s where the reserve switch connects to the pet cock. There's these 2 tiny screws that hold on the plate that says "res" "off" and "on" and it looks to be leaking from behind the plate somewhere. theres a metal ring behind it that s bent to hell to i imagine that may be the problem.

The other issue is putting the tank back on at all. With the petcock and reserve switch already attached, i cant get it to slide in because it hits the frame. The only other option, and how i got it off, is to slide the tank in and then try and attach the petcock. This is complicated though because theres not a lot of room and the reserve switch comes out right where the clutch cable goes by and it doesnt have a whole lot of give.

Also i discovered an electrical connection that looks like it was involved in a small fire. I was wandering if i should leave this or if it looks like it may be a problem. heres a pic
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iruneverytime
post Feb 28 2012, 12:25 PM
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Theres nothing to see in the second pic above

all this is the reserve switch and the two little screws i was talking about.

Thanks for all the advice. I know very little and find this forum invaluable.
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iruneverytime
post Feb 28 2012, 01:05 PM
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I may have to take you up on the tank after all. Mine developed a few pinholes during the rust removal. I tried to cover them, and the whole bottom of the tank, with jb weld. This does not work. It has started to bubble and scrape off where the pinholes are. here s some pics. I figure ill need some tank coating to salvage this, though at this point i believe a new tank is in order.
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